The Cuisine of Palestine

Ether has discussed several aspects of culture such as architecture, music, dance, literature, but somehow we’ve managed to gloss over one of the most important elements of a culture that every single person partakes in: food. To set things right, this month, let’s explore the culinary habits of one country in particular.

Palestine lies at the heart of the Levant, a region in the upper Arabian peninsula bordered by the Mediterranean Sea. As it is located in the Middle East and most of its residents are Arab, staples like labneh (strained yogurt), hummus (spread/dip made of chickpeas), kunafah (a dessert made of either semolina or filo pastry), and falafel (deep-fried balls made of chickpeas) are enjoyed throughout the country.

The olive branch is often considered a symbol of reconciliation, following the mythical tale of Athena and Poseidon. How fitting, then, that an approximate 1,02,000 olive trees have been destroyed by settlers since 2010 alone. Nevertheless, the olive and olive oil remain the centerpieces of nearly all Palestinian dishes, from a simple meal of flatbread (khubz) dipped in olive oil then za’atar to more complicated dishes such as musakhan and maqluba. Za’atar is a herb but also the name of a zesty spice mixture. Many among the Palestinian diaspora consider its presence as the sign of a Palestinian household2, 3.

Most Palestinians do not feel like they’ve eaten unless they’ve eaten khubz, usually cooked in a small oven called a taboon. Reem Kassis, author of The Palestinian Table, says the flatbread is used as like a utensil to eat—tighmees, which roughly translates to dipping, is when the bread is used to scoop up all other food, not unlike roti and sabzi or dosa and chutney. Yogurt is eaten with pretty much every meal, as are pickles and olives. A decent variety of spices are used in small amounts, mainly cumin, allspice berries, cinnamon sticks, black peppercorns, coriander, cardamom, cloves, nutmeg, and mace. Loof, Arum palaestinum, is a poisonous plant with a mouth-numbing effect that has to be cured with salt and olive oil before it can be consumed safely—it is said to have medicinal properties.

Many countries seem to have some combination of rice and lentils that serves as comfort food on cold days. The Levantine variant is mujaddara, which also includes crispy or caramelised onions. Maqluba, literally meaning upside-down, is a dish consisting of layered rice, meat, and vegetables which are cooked in a pot and flipped upside-down when served. It is considered by some to be the national dish of Palestine. Qidra, yet another rice dish, originates from Hebron, a city in the West Bank, and consists of meat (usually lamb, sometimes chicken) cooked with chickpeas and rice in a broth spiced with cumin, allspice, cardamom, black pepper, and turmeric. Onions and garlic are also included, and it is cooked in large copper or brass pots. Although these dishes are all now firmly embedded in Palestinian cuisine, they have originated quite recently in the last century as rice has been introduced to the region not too long ago.

Meals vary somewhat depending on the region. Fish and seafood are the highlights of typical meals in Gaza. However, the fishing industry is in the process of being eradicated by colonial forces, with the blockade leading to food poverty7. The food in Gaza remains characterized by green chillies, fresh dill, and the generous use of fresh garlic1. Zibdieh or zibdiyit gambari is a shrimp stew cooked in clay pots. Cooked crabs are stuffed with a red pepper paste called shatta. Sumac, a citrusy spice, is the essential ingredient in sumaghiyyeh, in which it is soaked in water and mixed with tahini (a sesame seed paste) then added to leafy greens, chickpeas, and stewed meat. Rummaniyeh (rumman is pomegranate) is a stew made with pomegranate molasses, brown lentils, and eggplants—pomegranates are a symbol of abundance, and each fruit is said to have one seed that comes from paradise or heaven5.

Rummaniyeh

Galilee, the northern part of mandated Palestine, is influenced by Lebanese cuisine. Some regions are famous for freshwater fish, olives, and pomegranates. Akkawi cheese, renowned throughout the Middle East, originated here in the city of Akka. On special occasions in the region, lamb is roasted and garnished with toasted nuts and parsley. Kibbeh is a dish of meat, bulgur and spices eaten with pita or markook bread, and leftovers are usually shaped into balls and deep fried. Shish kebab, grilled meat on skewers, is also enjoyed in the region.

The dishes of the West Bank involve lots of bread, lentils and meat. Musakahn is a chicken and onion dish usually served with flatbread. Different beans are cooked in tomato sauce and served with rice. Mandi, a dish of meat, rice, and vegetables cooked in a taboon, originally from Yemen, is also enjoyed in the region.

Food is essential for life, and the longer a food tradition is present in a region, the more integral it is to the people’s identities, to their culture. When every single part of a person’s existence is under siege, continuing to eat the food they have always eaten can be an act of revolution and resistance.

References

The Cuisine of Palestine

Recent Posts

Comentários

Subscribe