As we travel along the remotest alleys of our country, the sounds of the methodical movements of the warp and weft fill the air. The numerous hidden faces behind the rich tapestry of India's handwoven cloth become visible from the windows of poorly lit rooms. The Indian handloom, often compared to flowing rivers and airy clouds, is an embodiment of exquisite patterns and spell-binding artistry. From ancient weaves of the Indus valley civilization, to the more sophisticated weaves of the modern era, the industry has evolved in the backdrop of a tumultuous history of dynamic changes in social, political, and economic scenes. In ancient times, India, with its unrivaled and flourishing export market, was considered a textile hub that clothed the world. The medieval age, particularly the Mughal era, saw the inclusion of Persian motifs and patterns, the usage of a broader range of colors, and the introduction of new skills and techniques. It was also marked by an unprecedented increase in court patronage, leading to increased production.
However, the situation changed drastically with the arrival of the British. The period saw the exploitation of farmers, widespread extraction of valuable raw materials, and the import of machine-made yarn from other countries. This forced the weavers to depend on intermediaries to procure machine-made yarn, and the livelihoods of spinners were in great distress. The situation got worse towards the beginning of the First World War, with machine-made clothes from Manchester flooding the Indian market. The imposition of inequitable taxes further aggravated this dire situation.
Illustration by Sinta Maria Siby
After decades of oppression, the handloom saw a glimpse of revival only with the advent of the Swadeshi movement, which encouraged the use of charkha-spun yarn and Khadi clothes. With the boycott of British goods, indigenous handspun textiles became a political symbol of the resistance and gave the handloom industry a crucial helping hand. After independence, multiple welfare initiatives were drawn out to support the handloom community. August 7th is celebrated as the Indian Handlooms Day to commemorate the Khadi revolution that began on the same date in 1905 and also to encourage the weaving community.
Almost every region of the country has its own unique weave and specialized technique meticulously nurtured over generations. From Kalamkaris of Andhra Pradesh to Sambalpuri Ikats of Odisha, they speak of stories from the remotest hamlets of our country. The patterns, motifs, and material of cloth are widely influenced by the indigenous culture, traditions, folklore, climate, and other socio-cultural characteristics. Depending on the type of weave and its complexity, it takes anywhere between a few days to several months of intense hard work and intricate processes to traditionally create a saree or an embroidered cloth. The level of technique, rhythm, and precision involved is unparalleled. It is the human touch that makes each piece unique and inimitable by modern looms.
The handloom is one of the largest and oldest unorganized cottage industries in the country and the second-largest employment provider in rural India. Primarily based in rural and semi-urban areas, the industry is usually household-based and involves the efforts of multiple members of the family. Over 70% of all weavers in the country are women. And although their contributions are crucial, their roles are often underappreciated and invisible in decision-making and business activities.
Despite being a sector with enormous potential, the situation is still not conducive for the Indian handloom. Even with the multiple government schemes over the years, we are on the brink of losing our rich legacy to machine-made fabrics, poorly implemented welfare policies, and unaware consumers. The fierce competition from an ever-increasing number of cheap imitations attracts and often confuses consumers. Also, the dwindling economic opportunities have led the younger generation to shift to other occupations, resulting in a complete decline of many traditional techniques passed down for generations. Further, the pandemic had made things more difficult with the closure of multiple exhibitions, shops, and businesses.
While the challenges are numerous and urgent, it is not all doom and gloom. In recent times, consumer interest has been resurgent for handlooms. With multiple online marketing and social media platforms connecting weavers to designers and consumers in the urban areas, technology has played an important role. Moreover, it has helped eliminate intermediaries, set up independent businesses and ensure fair wages. An increasing number of workshops, fashion weeks, and documentaries have also improved visibility. They provide a much-needed insight into the processes of creating a handwoven piece, encouraging consumers to willingly pay the price commensurate with the time, effort, and dedication involved. Designer- weaver collaborations have also helped in innovative explorations while keeping its essence intact. Also, minimal use of electricity or power, fewer processes and chemicals required, and a vast number of traditional natural dyeing methods make hand-weaving a sustainable alternative to polluting and resource-intensive industries.
It is crucial that we identify and nurture the enormous potential that the handloom sector carries. An increase in livelihood opportunities can also help prevent forced mass migrations to the cities for menial jobs. Expanding the skill sets of the sector in areas such as display, online businesses, accounting, and media can help it navigate the meandering ways of the market. As consumers, buying authentic handloom products whenever possible, supporting verified grassroots organizations, and spreading the word can go a long way.
While some argue that it is necessary to transform the perspective of handloom as an art piece to that of a product, others believe that it should remain a luxury item to be able to reward its artistry appropriately. Either way, it is high time that we acknowledge the millions of unsung artists who transform pieces of yarn into yards of lush brocades and feather-light cottons. It is time we celebrate or maybe ‘shout out from the rooftop’ the story of hands that weave magic. They deserve that and much more.
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